Chorney-Booth: FinePrint writes a new culinary chapter in one of Calgary’s most famous historic buildings

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Calgary doesn’t always remember restaurants from days gone by. You can’t blame us. Even in the last 20 years, many places have come and gone. Most of the time there is something new and exciting taking over a previous favorite place. But Divino Wine and Cheese Bistro is still fresh in many Calgarians’ memories, five years after it closed. When he and his Beltline Hospitality Group opened their new restaurant Fine Print this fall, restaurateur Brad his Taylor wanted to honor it.

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FinePrint lives in the former Divino location on Stephen Avenue (where it moved from its original dig in the Grain Exchange Building more than 20 years ago) and is steeped in restaurant lore, but the 1893 sandstone building just so happens to be It was also the former headquarters of The. Calgary Herald dating back to the early 1900s. According to Taylor, his designer Anna-Maria Wurz of Avid Interior Design took all of that into consideration when coming up with the concept for the new restaurant.

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“The history of the space has been very important to us from day one,” says Taylor. “We wanted to respect the historic nature of the building and honor what was here before, but still feel separate enough and new. “

The skeleton of Divino is still there, a narrow 80-seat room with a long, swanky bar to the right and a sparkling open kitchen to the left. But even though the layout looks similar, everything is new. Part of the original bar surface has been transformed into a champagne table, and Divino’s washroom water fixtures are used in his new single room bathroom. The restaurant is bright in color and tone, and features cheeky print-themed artwork, including old pages from ancient copies of the Herald and original works by artist Cory Nespo.

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Taylor, who is also the man behind Briggs Kitchen and Bar, has a long relationship with chef Xavier Lacaze, who was asked to develop a menu for FinePrint. Following that homage theme, Lacaze came up with his version of Divino’s famous green bean tempura and bison tartare. The rest of the menu consists of local, seasonal ingredients and contemporary creations that combine regional French inspiration with global flair. Head chef Francis Martinez is responsible for running the initial menu, but will collaborate on future dishes as it evolves.

The menu is organized like sections in a book, with “forwards” (appetizers) such as Tuna Crudo ($22) bursting with flavor thanks to pickled ginger and yuzu dressing, and Tres Fancy Caviar with crème fraîche and brioche toast. There is a choice of Egg yolks ($32), and “main story” entrees like silky pan-fried sablefish with orange miso butter ($43) and roasted garlic gnocchi with shrimp bisque ($33). FinePrint’s prime location in the business lunch zone on Stephen Avenue also means there’s a tight lunch menu with favorites like Steak His Frites ($35) and Parmesan-Crusted Chicken Sandwich ($24).

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In keeping with the room’s tradition, FinePrint has a strong wine list, and for those who like a little flash, there’s a rare champagne vending machine in the downstairs waiting area. Breathe in 30 minutes or so before your appointment and visit with a token purchased from the waitstaff to purchase individual bottles of Bubbles (alcohol laws prohibit purchasing directly from the machine). Speaking of downstairs, a mysterious door in the waiting lounge eventually leads to Heavily Redacted, an invite-only restaurant still under construction designed to offer a bespoke experience for restaurant-connected guests.

FinePrint is located at 113 8th Ave. SW and can be reached at 403-475-5655 or fineprintyyc.ca. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 AM to 2 PM for lunch and from 5 PM for dinner.

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Speaking of Divino, the Herald published an article last week about the recent passing of local restaurant legend Witold Twardowski, but for readers who may have missed it, some context for this column. Twardowski’s first restaurant, Manna, opened in 1972, before I was born. When his Mescalero, the undeniable gem of his career, opened in the early 90’s, I was a teenager in his teens with no concept of hip dining. That said, it’s no exaggeration to say that Twardowski’s vision and ability to design restaurant spaces that captivate all the senses, well beyond the palate, revolutionized the way Calgarians view restaurants today. not.

Trends like open kitchens, thoughtful outdoor dining spaces, and all of the meticulous details that make a modern restaurant inviting would be right in Calgary if it weren’t for his work at places like Cilantro. would not have had such an impact on The original he Divino, Mescalero, and over 50 others. The next time you admire the design of your favorite restaurant, raise a glass and think of Twardowski. His influence is felt in every corner of the city.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth can be reached at elizabooth@gmail.com. Follow her on her Twitter (@elizaboothy) or her Instagram (@elizabooth).